- A well-fed and warmed chick is silent
- Refusers need help
- Artificial heating
- First to the toilet, and then eat
- What and how to feed the chicks
- If parents show aggression
- When everything goes according to plan
Start monitoring Amadina chicks from the moment they are born. If the kids are left without parental care, they will have to be artificially fed and heated. Young growth must be put in a flying cage if the parents stopped feeding them or proceeded to the next clutch.
A well-fed and warmed chick is silent
About two weeks after the Amadins began to hatch, chicks begin to hatch. A few hours after birth, babies are able to eat. Parents, depending on the type, feed them either in turn or together. At first, one of the adults is next to the chicks to warm them with their heat.
Watching the Amadins, you should not miss the moment when they began to feed the chicks with the help of food, burping it directly into their beaks. From this moment, you need to diversify their main food with products containing protein: boiled eggs, cottage cheese, insects and larvae, flour worms.
You can make a useful “mash”, the method of preparation of which we considered in the article “How to feed the amadine”. You need to teach birds such products long before nesting begins.
When the kids are seven to nine days old, they begin to fumble. At this time, you must provide them with substances necessary for the growth of feathers. Add to the food to the parents spikelets of milk ripeness, seeds of weeds and field plants, mineral top dressing.
It is possible to determine whether the chicks are full by their behavior and appearance. If the Amadins feed their babies well, they are silent most of the time. They begin to make a quiet squeak only when their parents appear. In well-fed chicks, goiters are swollen from food, their skin is smooth, without a single wrinkle. Flattened goiters indicate that parents are not fulfilling their duties.
Refusers need help
Any owner may encounter a situation where the Amadins refuse hatched chicks, do not feed and do not heat them. There are several reasons for this phenomenon: parents who are too young, first nesting – the birds still have no experience, during hatching of Amadins they were often bothered by the lack of protein products, the activity of one of the parents, striving for a new masonry and distracting the other from their duties.
Sometimes parents throw chicks out of the nest. This happens when the Amadins are afraid of something and cease to feel safe. Similarly, birds act if they do not have enough food to feed all the chicks, or one of the babies has physical defects.
Once in one of these situations, urgent action is required. You can use the services of nanny birds, which we talked about in the article "Breeding Amadin at home." Not having such an opportunity, but wanting to save the chicks, you will have to heat and feed them yourself.
The first thing you need to do is carefully put the chicks in a separate house, for example, a shoe box or a small drawer with a pre-equipped nest. Use a piece of cotton cloth instead of a cap.
In a new home, maintain a certain temperature: from the first to the seventh day – 35-38 degrees above zero, from the eighth to fourteenth – 30-35 degrees, from the fifteenth to twentieth – 22-25 degrees. For chicks of gould guards, you can leave the temperature at 30 degrees.
Three-week-old chicks do not need additional heating, but you do not need to lower the temperature anymore. Artificial heating can be arranged using an heating pad with a temperature regulator. Attach it to the bottom of the house from the outside so that the birds do not burn. Forty-watt incandescent lamps installed half a meter from the house are also suitable.
High temperatures make the air inside the house dry, which negatively affects the physical condition of the chicks. You need to maintain humidity of 55-70 percent by periodically spraying the walls of the house with water. For convenience, you can use the spray gun. You can install a stable container of water in the house – a glass cup or a porcelain deep saucer. Add water as needed.
First to the toilet, and then eat
Before you start artificial feeding, you need to wait until the chicks go to the toilet. Litter of chicks has a dark green color, the shape of a worm and a little liquid.
If you hurry, then the kids will have a blockage in the stomach, because of which they can die. If the chicks have not defecated for twelve hours, give them a few drops of five percent glucose or Ringer saline.
What and how to feed the chicks
Having decided to feed the chicks yourself, get ready for the fact that you will have to do this both day and night:
- after the appearance of the first litter and within three days: in the afternoon – every half an hour-hour, at night – every two hours;
- from the fourth to the seventh day: in the afternoon – every hour and a half, at night – every three hours;
- from the eighth to the fifteenth day: in the afternoon – every one and a half to two hours, at night – at twelve nights and at six in the morning;
- sixteenth to thirtieth day: in the afternoon – every two to four hours, at night – at twelve nights and at six in the morning.
For feeding, special mixtures for chicks are suitable: NutriBird A21, Orlux Handmix, Hand-Formula. You can also use baby food without milk, for example, Nestle "8 cereals."
Any mixture must be thoroughly mixed with water heated to 60 degrees until a liquid slurry is formed. For each meal, you need to make a fresh serving and feed the chicks when it cools to 39 degrees. For feeding use syringes without needles with silicone nozzles. For the first time, put food in the back of the beak and wait for the baby to swallow it. So you cause him a swallowing reflex.
The mixing rate of the mixture and water depending on the age of the chicks can be found in the table:
Starting from the thirtieth day, teach the chicks to eat on their own. First, offer them liquid porridge from millet. Grind the grains and boil them well in slightly sweetened water. Give in a teaspoon five to six times a day. After a week, the kids can be given a "mash", a week later – sprouted and grain-seed food. Night feeds stop when the birds begin to eat something other than the mixture.
When the chicks get stronger, they need to be placed in a spacious cage with adult amadins. They will strengthen their eating skills and teach many other things that their parents should have taught. Watch that adult birds do not peck young growth. In this case, the chicks will have to be put in a separate cage and wait until they are six to nine months old. After trying again.
If parents show aggression
There are times when parents stop letting in the nest of chicks that have recently flown out of it. They can treat babies aggressively: chase, pounce on them. Most likely, parents are preparing for the next clutch, and the first brood only bothers them. Sometimes birds pluck feathers and fluff from the chicks in order to equip a nest for new eggs.
If the birds have already strengthened to such an extent that they are confident in roosting, just remove the nest. After all, it is precisely it that provokes Amadine to procreation. If the chicks still need parental help, try putting one of the parents in a different cage, but so that the male and the female do not see each other.
Plucked chicks need to be given mineral top dressing, which will help the rapid growth of feathers.
When everything goes according to plan
Even if the Amadins feed and heat their chicks, they still need to be looked after. When the kids turn 17-20 days old, they make their first attempts to look out of the nest, and the bravest ones risk falling out. Fallen chicks must be carefully returned to their place.
After three or four days, this does not need to be done – the chicks learn to independently return to the nest, trying to grab onto the walls of the cage and perches. To make it easier for the kids to work, you can install several additional perches near the nest.
If you notice that the claws and beaks are underdeveloped in the chicks, add vitamin B-rich foods to their parents: eggs, a small amount of nuts, raw sunflower seeds (two to three per day), brewer’s yeast, rice porridge or buckwheat. When the birds learn to eat on their own, their diet needs to be varied with the same products.
When the chicks begin to master the vastness of the cage, make sure that they do not drown in bathing or drinking bowls. To avoid this, the water level should not exceed one and a half centimeters. When the kids learn to eat and get fully stronger, transplant them into a flying cage.
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