- ANIMAL FEED
- MINERAL FEEDS AND ADDITIVES
- FOOD STORAGE
- FEEDING TECHNIQUE
- NEED FOR SUNLIGHT
A charming downy miracle has appeared (or already lives) in your house – a budgie. And one of the first questions that a happy owner has is how to feed this little bundle of happiness. At home, in Australia, budgerigars eat grass and cereal seeds, young twigs and tree buds, and do not disdain a gaping insect. They also make raids on orchards and fields with wheat and other cultivated cereals, and eat fruits and berries. But their main diet consists mainly of seeds of varying degrees of maturity.
Also, you can get help in choosing food and recommendations for feeding in our section on the nutrition of budgies – Restaurant "Wavy"
Finally, you and your pet have chosen a good grain feed, the parrot eats it with appetite, is vigorous and feels good. However, it is worth knowing that one grain feed is not enough, your pet also needs other feeds for a full healthy life and well-being (and you also want to treat your pet with a tasty treat). What can be offered to the budgie to make it tasty and healthy?
Everyone knows that vegetables contain a lot of useful substances and vitamins. Remember that all the vegetables that you will give the budgie should be fresh, thoroughly washed under water and should not contain any pesticides that are used in the process of growing these crops. Vegetables should be given either cut into pieces, or grated, separately or mixed with other products.
- carrots are a very valuable food containing a lot of carotene and other useful substances. They are fed only in raw form, cut into pieces or grated and mixed with other ingredients (with boiled egg, breadcrumbs).
turnip – can also be used as food for parrots, although it is significantly inferior to carrots in terms of the content of useful substances.
- pumpkin, melon – a storehouse of utilities. they have many vitamins, minerals and sugars. Raw pumpkin and melon are fed, previously cut into pieces. Pumpkin seeds are also useful, in them vitamins A, D, E, K and many trace elements, they can be given fragmented.
- zucchini, squash. useful as a source of fiber and sugar.
- watermelon is a non-nutritious type of feed with a mild laxative effect. Contains some fiber and sugars, as well as some vitamins. The forage and seeds are used in the feed.
- cucumber – contains vitamin E and trace elements, improves metabolism. Parrots can be given cucumbers only from their own beds and in no case purchased. Cucumbers give parrots only fresh.
- Tomato is a good type of feed containing carotene, vitamin C and B vitamins, as well as organic acids. Tomato seeds are rich in vegetable oil. up to 25%. Parrots are fed only fresh, ripe fruits, since greens contain the poisonous alkaloid solanine, which is destroyed when ripe. Parrots eat both pulp and tomato seeds. Like cucumbers, tomatoes also need to be taken environmentally friendly, without chemicals.
- beets (table, sugar, fodder). It contains a lot of sugar, fiber, vitamins and minerals. It can be stored for a long time and used in winter.
- corn – give fresh in the phase of milk ripeness (when the grains are still soft and sweet). Corn contains a small amount of fiber and a lot of carbohydrates. In terms of protein content, it surpasses some other grain feeds. There is a lot of starch in corn and there is vitamin B.
- green peas, beans. in the phase of milk ripeness, there are many in them. sugars and vitamins (give only in season and in small quantities).
- cabbage is a very good vitamin food rich in trace elements. They are fed with pieces of leaves, and thick cabbage stalks can be cut into pieces or grated, like carrots. Be careful with Chinese cabbage (Beijing salad) – only the green part of the leaf can be given to parrots, nitrates accumulate in the petiole.
- spinach, salad – very useful vitamin feeds containing (especially spinach) many trace elements. They are fed in small portions, since a large number of these vegetables can cause a small digestive upset in the bird, especially if spinach and salad are introduced into the diet after a long break.
- bell peppers. fruits are very rich in nutrients, contain vitamins A, E, C, groups B, P, many minerals (potassium, magnesium, calcium, iron, sodium, manganese, iodine, copper, fluorine, zinc, silicon), carbohydrates and acids. There is more vitamin C in pepper than in lemons, and the well-ripened fruits of the autumn harvest contain it more than the summer ones. Can be given with seeds.
- turnip – only blanched.
- celery – contains calcium. You can only greens.
It is impossible:
- onion, garlic – has a sharp taste and contains essential oils.
- eggplant. contains solanine (the same as that found in green potato tubers).
Fruits, like vegetables, should be given fresh, well washed under water. Some fruits need to be peeled – such as citrus fruits, bananas, kiwi, etc., since they may contain pesticides that are used to process these crops from pests. To give in a separate feeding trough.
- apple is a source of iron, vitamins and minerals. Apple should be part of the bird diet all year round.
- pear – pear contains a lot of fiber and almost no fat. The content of vitamins and trace elements is almost not inferior to an apple. Feed in small quantities as a treat.
- citrus fruits – contain vitamin C, tangerines are especially useful.
- plum is an indispensable source of potassium and phosphorus, it has many vitamins and minerals.
- Grapes – a strong antioxidant, removes toxins from the body, it has a lot of vitamins and minerals. 3-5 berries per week will be beneficial.
- banana – a source of sugars and starch, give the birds peeled in small pieces (perishable product).
- peaches, apricots. in season, contain many trace elements and vitamins.
- cherries. in season, there are a lot of vitamins and fructose in cherries.
- berries – raspberries, currants of all kinds, wild berries, sea buckthorn, red and aronia, rosehip, strawberries, lingonberries, strawberries, blueberries, cranberries, honeysuckle – are useful to budgies in season. They contain many useful substances, you can dry them and offer parrots dried or steamed.
- Kiwi – without skin.
- pineapple – in small quantities, in the form of goodies (only fresh and ripe).
- pomegranate is very useful, it contains vitamins, sugars and trace elements.
It is impossible:
- mango, avocado, papaya, persimmon. all contain certain harmful substances for parrots and can cause poisoning and intoxication of the bird’s body.
- nuts are a fatty and nutritious food; they should not be given to parrots every day. This can cause obesity and indigestion. Occasionally (1-2 times a month), in the form of goodies, you can treat the parrot with a small piece of walnut, cashew, hazelnut or give 1-2 peeled pine nuts.
Greens should be given to parrots as often as possible. It should be included in the daily diet of the bird. The grass should be freshly torn and well washed. You can’t tear grass in arms – a poisonous plant can always be caught! You can not give grass and leaves of trees growing in the city, since many harmful substances deposited on them by automobile transport and industrial enterprises settle on them.
You can also find comprehensive information on this subject in our topic Herbs for budgies
wood lice, clover, burdock (burdock), knotweed, grapevine, meadow herbs, leaf salads, scalded nettle leaves, carrot and beet tops, quinoa and spinach (in small quantities), plantain leaves, oats, wheat and other cereals, thin branches of fruit trees with buds, buds, with young leaves. You can spring and summer willow leaves, do not forget that by the autumn a lot of harmful toxic substances accumulate in the leaves. Some lovers give budgies to small twigs of pine and spruce. their needles contain a large number of vitamin C, essential oils, fiber. But it is worth remembering that coniferous branches also contain resin. therefore, branches of these species should be given very rarely and in small quantities, preferably only in winter, and other species of tree should be used in other seasons.
It is impossible:
give spicy and fragrant herbs. parsley, dill, hyssop, cilantro, sorrel and other spices.
All budgerigars are very fond of nibbling something, and they try everything on the beak that is possible and that is impossible too – wallpaper, plaster, ceiling tiles, baseboards and other inedible, but, apparently, very “tasty” things are especially popular with budgies. To take a little beak of a parrot and reduce biting, often put fresh branches of trees in a cage – parrots knead their legs and gnaw on bark and buds from branches.
Naturally, branches cannot be torn near harmful industries, garbage cans, roads. Unfortunately, not all citizens have the opportunity to go to the forest, so you can break branches in the park, away from the road or on the outskirts of the city.
And so you selected the right branches and brought them home. But take your time – do not immediately poke them in a cage to the bird. The branches should be soaked in cold water for 5-6 hours, thoroughly washed under running hot water, then scald them with boiling water so that together with the branches the infection, for example, beetles or ticks, would not get into the cage (do not forget that wild birds could sit on these branches ) Also, do not wash branches with surfactants, such as dishwashing detergents, household cleaners, or soap. Surfactants easily penetrate into the bark of branches and it is not always possible to wash them from there even with a few hot washes. As a result, the bird can recover.
birch, aspen, linden, maple, willow (willow), chestnut, alder, mountain ash, plum, cherry (be sure to ensure that there are no tar on the branches), apple tree, pear, citrus fruits, currants of various kinds, ash, beech, hornbeam, hawthorn, viburnum, red aronia, raspberries, hazel.
It is impossible:
coniferous branches. due to the resin content (only rarely and in small quantities); bird cherry and oak. they contain, in large quantities, tannins; lilac. the kidneys and bark contain a bitter-tasting glycoside syringin; elderberry; poplar. absorbs toxic substances from the atmosphere; acacia. most species of acacia are poisonous, and since acacia has many visually difficult to distinguish species, it is possible to incorrectly identify the species and poison the bird.
Also, you can learn a lot about this topic in our topic Home plants that can be eaten by budgies.
tradescanthus, fat girl (krassula), chlorophytums, bamboo, Kalanchoe, indoor palm trees, roses, cyperus, birch (cissus), yucca, aloe, hibiscus (Chinese rose), peperomia, rheo, dracaena, citrus, chrysanthemum, etc.
It is impossible:
orange chlorophytum, philodendron, euphorbia, hemlock, dieffenbachia, hyacinths, ivy, buttercup, yew, aronnik, daphne, heather, azalea, tobacco, privet, broom, wrestler, digitalis, potato sprouts, rhododendron, belladonna, indoor fern, sunflower .
For the normal functioning of the budgie, mineral components must always be present in its cage. Substances that come with food cannot fully satisfy the body’s need with some macro- and microelements. For example, the need for mineral salts, during molting and nesting, grows 2-3 times. That is why it is necessary to artificially add to the ration of the budgerigar, mineral supplements, which are so necessary for him. For what each of them is needed, we will analyze in order. Also, if in the process of familiarization, you have any questions, you can always turn to our experts in the topic Mineral dressing
When choosing vitamins and their use, several rules should be remembered:
- you need to buy vitamins only from trusted manufacturers and never take dubious brands;
- Check expiration dates and packaging integrity immediately at the place of purchase;
- Do not hesitate, and immediately, on the spot, to ask all the information that interests you on this issue;
- Do not abuse vitamin preparations. remember that vitamins are given strictly according to the course and dosage, which must be necessarily indicated on the package or leaflet;
- An open bottle with vitamins is stored, usually no more than a month and after this time, the drug must be replaced with a new one.
Also, as vitamin supplements, you can use lemon juice, apple cider vinegar and honey.
- lemon juice. 2-3 drops are added to the drinker. This juice, in addition to protein, carbohydrates, dietary fiber and organic acids, also contains very important vitamins: C, E, PP, B vitamins; minerals – potassium, calcium, sodium, magnesium, copper, zinc, iron, phosphorus, manganese, fluorine, boron, molybdenum, sulfur, chlorine. Such a rich mineral composition is not in every juice. Certain substances, of which there are many in lemon juice, together with ascorbic acid, strengthen the smallest vessels, and take an active part in redox processes in the body.
- Apple vinegar. used for the prevention of megabacteriosis and as a source of vitamins. Once a week, you can add to the drinker in the calculation of 1 ml of apple cider vinegar per 100 ml of water. Apple cider vinegar should be only natural and not more than 5%.
- honey. 3-5 drops are added to the drinker per 100 ml of water. It is a good source of vitamins and helps with bowel blockage, acting as a laxative.
If you still have questions about vitamins, please visit our Vitamins topic. Vitamin Questions
Another good and nutritious type of food is the germinated seeds of grain crops. Germinated grain has a lot of vitamins and perfectly affects the functioning of the parrot’s body as a whole – such grains are a product of high biological value, in which live active energy and valuable nutrients are concentrated. When germinating in grains, the content of certain vitamins of group B, vitamin E increases; Vitamin C appears in the sprouts, which is absent in ordinary grain; the amount of sugar and fiber is increasing. Phytates, which block the absorption of calcium, magnesium, zinc and other mineral elements by the body, are partially destroyed in the germinated grain. Germinated feeds are a powerful stimulator of the body’s vital activity – they increase immunity, regulate and restore vital processes in the body, and ensure normal metabolism. The need for such feeds increases especially in the winter months, when very few nutrients remain in fruits and vegetables, and the only natural way to replenish them is to use grain sprouting. Also, such food is indispensable during molting and when feeding chicks.
Before you begin to germinate, you first need to select the grains. Grain should be purchased from trusted suppliers – it should not have a smell of mold and should be treated with pesticides. To test the grain for suitability, it is poured with water – “dead grains” immediately float to the surface, from where they are immediately removed, and good grains will remain at the bottom. You can sprout a lot of crops – this is millet, oats, buckwheat, wheat, barley, etc. Do not sprout a lot of grain at a time. Remember that germinated grain can be stored for no more than 48 hours and then in the refrigerator.
So, how do you sprout grain. A small amount of grain is washed under cold running water and poured into a flat bowl, preferably glass or porcelain, with a layer of 0.5–1 cm. Grains can be poured either on a bedding cloth or gauze, or directly on the bottom of the dishes. From above, the grain is covered with cloth or gauze and poured with water at room temperature to the upper level of the grain. After that, the container with the grain is placed in a warm, darkened place. As the moisture dries, the upper fabric needs to be moistened.
In a day or two, grain sprouts from 1 to 3 mm (depending on environmental conditions and grain quality) and it can be fed to a bird.
Also, special attention should be paid to steaming grain. Indeed, even simply swollen grains that have not yet hatched, but have already been filled with juices, are a complete food for the budgerigar. Steaming grain is a much simpler process than germination – a small amount of grain is poured into a mug or thermos and poured with boiling water for several hours. After some time, the water is drained, and the swollen grains are fed to the parrots in a separate feeder.
Also, you can get a number of comprehensive answers on grain germination in our topic How to germinate food?
Another very important type of food for budgies is animal feed. But it should be remembered that these feeds are used only as an additional type of feed to the main one, to replenish some substances in the body that are not found in plant foods. Protein feeds give the budgie only 2-3 times a month with normal contents and daily, with molting, preparation for nesting and when feeding chicks.
When using animal feed, you should know several features:
- these feeds deteriorate very quickly, especially in extreme heat. that’s why you need to give as much feed as the bird can eat at a time;
- protein feed is given in a clean separate feeder;
- at the usual content (meaning the inter-nesting period), the parrot is fed protein feed no more than 2-3 times a month. the abundance of animal feed provokes premature oviposition in the female, which is very undesirable in the inter-nesting period.
So, what kind of animal feed can be given to a budgie.
- egg. very good and nutritious food for a parrot. Yolk contains about 70% of organic substances and vitamins A, D, E, K. The protein contains about 28% of organic substances and B vitamins. The chicken egg contains such important micro and macro elements as phosphorus, magnesium, calcium, potassium, sodium , iron, chlorine, sulfur, iodine, boron, bromine, etc. Give a hard-boiled egg. Cook for 6-8 minutes, so that as a result the egg yolk becomes loose. The boiled egg is peeled and rubbed on a fine grater. You can feed the parrot both in pure form or in the form of soft mixes, mix with carrots or beets and sprinkle with grated white crackers, or semolina (so that the mixture does not stick together and is more crumbly). Also, 2-3 drops of fish oil per one tablespoon of feed can be added to the mixture.
- fish fat. contains a large amount of vitamins A and D, iodine and phosphorus. Both natural and enriched vitamins A and D are produced. It should be stored at a temperature of no more than 10º C, but even in the refrigerator, an open bottle with fish oil will oxidize in a few days, rancid and become unsuitable for consumption by a parrot.
- cottage cheese. must be fat free. This product is an excellent source of protein for the bird, and it also contains vitamins, such as phosphorus, magnesium, calcium and iron, as well as lactic acid. Cottage cheese should be fresh and crumbly (if it sticks together, then semolina can be added to it). You can not give the bird sour curd. it can cause poisoning.
- flour worms and gammarus. also very good protein food for the budgerigar. In nature, eating parrots by insects is random, but if you diversify the diet of the bird with these components, then it will certainly benefit it.
Also, additional information on this issue, you can find in our topic Protein feed
Porridge is a good supplement for the budgie. They can be offered to the budgie daily. To make porridge, you can use peas, soy, beans, lentils, buckwheat, rice, corn grits, pearl barley, barley groats, wheat, oat groats and others. When cooking porridge for a parrot, you should remember several features – porridge cannot be boiled in milk, you can’t add salt, sugar, butter or condiments. It is best to cook several types of cereals at once (but separately, and then mix them), so that the bird receives, as large as possible, a varied diet. There are different recipes for making porridge, depending on the type of porridge – they can be cooked to full- or semi-preparedness, you can simply pour boiling water over and let it swell so that the porridge is steamed (in a thermos or double boiler). Best of all, if the porridge comes out friable (it turns out when it is just a little cooked) – in this case it is easily eaten by a parrot, does not gather in lumps and does not stick to its beak. Various components and additives can be mixed into porridge, such as finely chopped vegetables or fruits, dried nettle leaves or other greens, etc.
You can store porridge in the freezer for a long time, every day thawing the necessary feed rate. It is only necessary to freeze the porridge itself, and add vegetables, fruits, herbs and other components every day after defrosting. It is better to defrost at room temperature, putting food for several hours from the freezer on a shelf in the refrigerator, and then from the refrigerator to the room. If you defrost porridge immediately, say in the microwave, then it will become sticky and lose its friability.
Also, a lot of useful information about cooking porridges and feeding them, you can find in our topic What kind of porridge can be given to a budgie?
Here’s what I write about herbs allowed for priests, I quote:
Highlander bird (aka: knotweed, gosyatnitsa, burkun)
yellow acacia (fruits)
wild strawberries (leaves, berries)
Ivan tea (aka: fireweed)
clover (leaves, flowers)
nettle (need to scald with boiling water, or freeze / dry)
coltsfoot (leaves, flowers)
bluegrass ordinary and annual
oats empty (aka: oats)
dandelions (leaves, flowers, rhizomes (rinse, sprinkle with pharmaceutical clay))
shepherd’s bag ordinary
chaff perennial (aka: pasture ryegrass)
wheat grass creeping
The healing properties of herbs:
chamomile for diarrhea
calendula or decoction of willow bark. with goiter diseases
fennel for swallowing and diarrhea
St. John’s wort and acanthus plantain (decoctions) to strengthen the immune system.
strong black tea stimulates blood circulation and the bird does not die from shock (for example, hitting a glass or wall)
coltsfoot to birds suffering pneumonia, rhinitis, sinusitis" (with)
In winter and spring, when there is little nutritious food, parrots can be given swede.
Cabbage is rich in vitamins and minerals and therefore is a good food for parrots. Cabbage can be given to birds only in raw form, cutting leaves into small pieces.
Chestnuts and acorns are rich in carbohydrates and minerals, but birds must first be accustomed to this feed. Medium-sized parakeets, chestnuts and acorns should be given in crushed form.
One of the favorite food of parrots of all kinds is nuts (walnuts, hazelnuts, peanuts, etc.), but since they are very nutritious and contain a large amount of fat, their share in the diet of birds should not exceed 5-7%.
Small and medium-sized parrot nuts should be given in crushed form.
In the natural habitat, parrots are known to eat various insects with pleasure. Therefore, from time to time, pets need to be given feed of animal origin, which includes both insects (flour worms, crickets), and cottage cheese, milk, eggs and meat.
Many amateurs give parrots low-fat fresh non-sour cottage cheese, as well as white bread soaked in milk. In addition, a great source of animal protein is a hard-boiled egg that can be given to birds along with grated carrots (dried nettle, alfalfa, finely chopped lettuce and dandelion leaves are sometimes added to the mixture).
Meat contains a large amount of animal protein, and therefore this type of feed should be handled with extreme caution. In other words, meat food cannot be introduced into the diet of parrots unless absolutely necessary. If such a need arises, then the proportion of meat in the diet of birds should be minimal. For this purpose, it is best to use the liver, which is rich in vitamins and mineral salts. Meat products, before giving them to parrots, must be boiled and cranked through a meat grinder.
One of the most complete animal feed, containing, in addition to protein, many vitamins and mineral salts, is a boiled chicken egg. A chicken egg is an indispensable food for parrot chicks of all kinds. Adult birds need to include a boiled chicken egg in the diet during preparation for the nesting season and feeding of chicks, as well as during molting.
Each lover has his own way of preparing the egg mixture for parrots, but the most nutritious and useful are the following:
Grate the egg or chop finely with a knife, add grated carrots and 1 tablespoon of white crackers (semolina, bran) to it. Mix everything thoroughly and feed the parrots.
Boil the egg and, together with the shell, cut into four parts and put in the feeder.
You can not give parrots sausages, sausages, fried and canned meat.
The source of protein, calcium and phosphorus is meat and bone meal, which should be included in the mineral fertilizing or added to the egg mixture (3 g flour per 100 g mixture). From dairy products, low-fat cottage cheese and powdered or skim milk are suitable for the diet of parrots. If the curd is friable, then it can be given to the birds in pieces, and if not, then mix it with breadcrumbs and grated carrots. Milk can be included in the composition of the egg mixture (0.5 teaspoon per 100 g of the mixture).
Parrots willingly eat flour worms (larvae of large flour cartilage), which are the source of animal protein. However, the amount of this feed in the diet of birds should be limited (10–20 larvae no more than 2 times a week).
Bloodworms (mosquito larvae), well known to anglers and aquarium fish lovers, are used by some amateurs as food for parrots. In terms of protein and minerals, bloodworms are not a very nutritious food, so its norm in the diet of birds can not be limited.
Many lovers include various insects in the diet of their pets: wax moth, grasshoppers, May beetles, Drosophila, etc.
MINERAL FEEDS AND ADDITIVES
In addition to the main food, various mineral supplements should be included in the diet of parrots. Usually, mineral feeds are given to parrots in separate feeders, into which the mineral mixture is poured and periodically replaced with a new portion (at least once every 14–15 days).
However, experts advise making special briquettes containing a mixture of mineral components. There are many such mixtures, but the most optimal is mineral dressing, made from the following components:
›Crushed and sifted eggshells – 210 g;
›Coarse river sand – 150 g;
›Wood ash – 50 g;
›Crushed tablets of calcium glycerophosphate – 25 g;
›Crushed tablets of calcium gluconate – 25 g;
›Table salt – 20 g;
›Bone meal – 10 g;
BRIQUETTES FROM MINERAL COMPONENTS.
All of these components should be mixed thoroughly, add water so that the mass is a pasty consistency, and then spread out on an iron sheet (you can use a large baking sheet for this purpose) with a thickness of 1-1.5 cm. On the wet surface of the "cake" put risks that separate “Flat cake” up to half its thickness into small pieces of 30–40 g. In the middle of each piece you need to insert a paper clip unhooked in the form of a hook, and then place the baking sheet in a warm, dry place (you can use it in the sun), where you can dry the cooked mass 14–20 days.
The completely dried mixture has a gray-yellow color with interspersed individual components (eggshells, grains of sand, etc.).
After drying, the cake should be broken into separate briquettes according to the risks applied in advance. Parrots are usually eager to gnaw briquettes suspended by hooks from the bars of the cage or the grid of the aviary. Birds should be given 1-2 briquettes weighing 30-40 g once a month.
With proper feeding, parrots can live very long. If the birds die at the age of 6–8 from “old age” or “for no reason”, then this, as a rule, indicates their improper maintenance and feeding.
The diet of parrots should include not only nutritious food, but also all the necessary substances and vitamins, without which the normal functioning of the bird’s body is impossible. Moreover, all components of the feed mixture must be balanced in the required proportions and meet the needs of parrots in a given period (time of breeding, feeding of chicks, molting period, etc.).
When feeding parrots, it is better to use approximate diets, made taking into account all the substances necessary for the body of the bird.
FEEDING WAVE PARKERS.
Approximate daily ration for budgies, lovebirds, monk parrots, parakeets:
›Sunflower seeds – 1 g;
›Canary seed – 3 g;
›Weed seeds – 2 g;
›Crushed corn – 1 g;
›Walnuts or hazelnuts – 1 g;
›White bread – 3 g;
›Millet, buckwheat or rice porridge – 2 g;
›Chopped chicken egg – 2 g;
›Brewer’s yeast – 0.25 g;
›Fresh cabbage leaves – 1 g;
›Grated carrots – 2 g;
›Calcium gluconate – 0.25 g;
›Apple or pear – 1 g;
Approximate daily diet for Corell:
›Millet, buckwheat, rice (in the form of porridge) – 2 g;
›Canary seed – 3 g;
›Sunflower seeds – 1 g;
›Grass seeds – 2 g;
›Grated carrots – 2 g;
›Fresh cottage cheese – 1 g;
›Apples or pears – 2 g;
›Brewer’s yeast – 0.5 g;
›White bread – 2 g;
›Cabbage – 2.5 g. But, before using the approximate diet given in this book or other literature on parrots or compiled independently, it is necessary to calculate the needs of each individual bird for certain substances, as well as to know what types of feed and how much of these substances are contained.
For example, when feeding parrots with a grain mixture, in which sunflower seeds predominate, birds often have diseases associated with metabolic disorders in the body. To avoid this, we must remember that sunflower and hemp can be included in the grain mixture in small quantities, and when birds are in a warm room, food with a high percentage of oil-bearing substances should be completely excluded from the diet (in the inter-nesting period).
Below are sample weekly diets for feeding parrots in the inter-nesting period.
1st day: soft food, grain mixture, sprouted oats, millet, steamed corn.
2nd day: grain mixture with the addition of dried nettles, sprouted wheat grains, seedlings of oats.
3rd day: grain mixture, rolls soaked in milk.
4th day: soft food, grain mixture with the addition of coniferous flour, apples, broth of wild rose.
5th day: grain mixture with the addition of coniferous or herbal flour, chopped nuts, oat seedlings, sprouted wheat seedlings, grated carrots, rosehip broth, steamed corn or peas, millet.
6th day: soft food, grain mixture with the addition of herbal flour, grated beets.
7th day: grain mixture, sprouted oats, bananas.
1st day: grain mixture, soft feed, seedlings of oats and millet.
2nd day: grain mixture with the addition of coniferous flour, seedlings of oats or millet, grated beets.
Products that are dangerous for parrots of all kinds include sausages, sausages, fried and smoked meat and fish, lard, sweets, alcoholic beverages, and also diuretic herbs.
3rd day: grain mixture, sprouted wheat grains, seedlings of oats and millet, grated carrots with the addition of cottage cheese.
4th day: soft food, grain mixture with the addition of dried nettles, grated beets.
5th day: grain mixture, broth of wild rose, loaf soaked in milk, steamed corn, chopped nuts, seedlings of oats.
6th day: grain mixture with the addition of herbal and coniferous flour, steamed oats.
7th day: grain mixture, sprouted wheat grains, slices of orange or mandarin, broth of wild rose, greens.
1st day: grain mixture, white bread soaked in sweet tea, cottage cheese, dandelion or clover leaves.
2nd day: soft food, grain mixture, lettuce.
In winter, parrots can be given crickets and flour worms bred at home.
3rd day: grain mixture, dandelion leaves, slices of fresh cucumber or tomato.
4th day: grain mixture, apple slices, unripe spikelets of dandelion.
5th day: soft food, grain mixture, white crackers soaked in milk, dandelion and spinach leaves.
6th day: grain mixture, grated carrots with chopped nuts, leaves of woodlice and dandelion.
7th day: grain mixture, leaves of cabbage and lettuce, berries, slices of pear.
1st day: grain mixture, cabbage leaves, soft food, berries.
2nd day: grain mixture soaked in milk rolls or white bread, slices of apple or pear, grapes.
3rd day: grain mixture, wheat seeds sprouted without soil, cabbage leaves, spruce needles.
4th day: grain mixture, slices of apple or pear, rowan berries.
5th day: grain mixture, soft feed, cottage cheese with grated nuts, cabbage leaves.
6th day: grain mixture, white crackers soaked in sweet tea or dried cookies, grated carrots, slices of apple or pear.
7th day: a grain mixture with the addition of dried nettles, sprouted wheat grains, cabbage leaves.
To avoid the appearance of mold, grain and soft food should be stored in a cool, dry place. It is desirable to store a large amount of grain feed in dense linen bags, and small portions are most conveniently poured into tightly closed plastic or glass jars intended for food storage.
In order to avoid the formation of toxins during feed storage, a propinic acid preparation can be added to it. In this case, you must follow the instructions.
Quite often, in the feed for parrots, grain or flour mites are started. To check the feed for ticks, pour it into a bowl with a slide and leave it overnight.
If there are ticks in the grain, the next morning the bowl will be filled only to the brim, the slide will disappear and grains will be scattered around the bowl.
Parrot food should not be stored with fertilizers, pesticides, detergents and disinfectants.
A considerable danger to the health of birds is food affected by parasitic fungi. Parasitic fungi appear during improper storage of grain feed.
Mold fungus appears at high humidity (80% and above) and grain (13% and above).
In addition, the increase in temperature also affects the growth of parasitic fungi, so the temperature in the room where bird food is stored should not exceed 10 ° C. Poisoning of parrots with food infected with fungi leads to irritation of the mucous membranes and disease of the liver and kidneys.
In addition, fungal poison has a carcinogenic effect.
When buying feed, special attention should be paid to the expiration date and packaging (it is recommended to purchase feed in a plastic bag that is completely sealed).
Many novice lovers believe that since parrots come from the arid steppes of Australia and Brazil, they hardly need water either. Actually, water is needed for parrots.
Water is an essential component of any living organism and takes part in all life support processes, absorbing nutrients, dissolving them and distributing them throughout the body.
Water that has stood in the drinker for more than 24 hours is a great danger to the health of the parrot.
The need for parrots in the liquid depends on many factors – such as ambient temperature, body temperature, food ration, etc.
Wavy buddies are very fond of watching the stream of water.
Bird consumption of water increases during their growth. Parents dilute the food they eat with water to make it easier for the chicks to exfoliate it. In addition, water consumption increases if parrots are fed only with grain feed, and slightly decreases if germinated seeds and soft feed are present in the birds ’diet. In some diseases, for example, with an intestinal upset, parrots need to give as much drinking water as possible, since frequent secretions lead the bird’s body to a forced loss of fluid, up to dehydration with fatal consequences (blood clotting, asthenia, circulatory disturbance, shock and death )
Parrots should be given well-maintained or filtered tap or well water. In areas with poor water quality, boil water before giving water to the birds.
When including mineral water in the diet of parrots, it should be remembered that it should not contain carbon dioxide.
The decisive factor for the well-being and health of parrots is compliance with the rules of water hygiene. Water in a drinking bowl needs to be changed every day. In this case, be sure to thoroughly wash the drinkers.
When liquid or powdery vitamins are added to water, it must be changed every 10-12 hours, since all vitamin preparations contain substances that promote the rapid multiplication of bacteria.
The amount of feed poured into the feeder should not be more than the parrots can eat per day, otherwise they will start to choose their favorite grains in the mixture and become too picky and moody. If the feed is poured less than normal, then the birds will remain hungry.
To determine the norm for your pets, you should watch them for some time.
Do not include too many fat-containing components in the diet, otherwise inflammation of the intestinal mucosa may occur.
Porridge, cottage cheese, vegetables, fruits and other additives to the main feed should be placed in a separate bowl, which must be thoroughly washed and dried after each feeding. Cookies and crackers can be inserted between the bars of the cell.
FOOD FROM HANDS OF THE OWNER – THE MOST TASTY FOOD.
Drinking water and additional green food should be given in the morning. During the feeding of the chicks, both water and feed should be changed 3 times a day, and the leftovers should be removed for the night.
In order for the parrots to be healthy and fun, they need the right conditions.
NEED FOR SUNLIGHT
Sunlight is essential for the health of a parrot. In his homeland, warm weather and the bright sun pamper the birds all year round. From how much light a bird receives, its vital activity and proper growth depend.
For the bird to be healthy, it is necessary to take into account all the parameters of light: the degree of illumination, the duration of daylight hours and the spectrum of the light flux.
The slightest changes are not in the best way reflected in the health of the parrot. For example, an increase in daylight hours significantly accelerates the sexual development of young animals, and a decrease, on the contrary, inhibits. Both that and another are harmful – fast sexual development occurs due to improper development of other body systems, and slow – leads to the emergence of various diseases.
If the parrot suffers a shortage of sunlight for a long time, this can eventually lead to metabolic disorders in the body, growth retardation, rickets, feathers falling out, and a decrease or complete cessation of egg laying.
The sun affects the body of the parrot, affecting all physiological processes. All internal organs and systems are affected by sunlight, and the endocrine system involved in the production of hormones is especially susceptible to their effects.
Sunlight has the following effects on the bird’s body:
›Accelerates metabolic processes;
›Promotes an increase in red blood cells in the blood, and also increases the level of hemoglobin;
›Increases the bactericidal properties of blood;
›Increases the amount of phosphorus and calcium in the body;
Ultraviolet rays contribute to the production of vitamin D. This vitamin is very beneficial for bird health and plays an important role in molting a parrot. Ultraviolet does not pass through the window glass and the parrot does not receive it in the quantity he needs. Artificial lighting can not make up for the lack of ultraviolet radiation, so from time to time, a cage with a pet needs to be put outside for a short time or a window should be opened.
In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the cell is not completely in direct sunlight. It must necessarily have shaded areas so that the parrot can hide from the sun if necessary.
Do not overdo it with sunbathing. This will not do the parrot good either. As a result, he may lose his appetite, become lethargic and drowsy. In some cases, overheating leads to impaired functioning of the nervous system.
To fully satisfy the need of parrots in sunlight, it is necessary to consider the correct mode of their stay in the fresh air and in the sun. The optimal ratio of light to dark during the day and throughout the year.
In Russia, in late autumn and winter, daylight hours become much shorter than in the summer. Because of this, it needs to be prolonged by artificial lighting, only in this way will the parrot feel good. It is good if the bird is exposed to light for at least 14–16 hours. For illumination of the cage, bulbs with a power of at least 5 W per 1 m2 are best suited.
Novice breeders are wondering which lamps to choose for their feathered pet – ordinary or fluorescent (fluorescent). The answer is simple – both are useful for the bird. But, according to some breeders, luminescent are more suitable for keeping feathered pets.